After our September 2017 visit to Paris we travelled onwards to Portugal, starting our trip in Porto. This was our first visit to Portugal and my expectations were high. Why you might ask? Well there is some interesting family history on my Mother’s side of the family.
My family connection with Portugal
Family lore (never validated) is that my maternal great grandparents Emmaline Carilessi and Jose de Fraetus Henriquez eloped from Portugal on a ship bound for parts unknown. In 1869 Emmaline died in childbirth on board ship and was buried at sea somewhere off the coast of China. Jose and his daughter Marianna sailed on, settling in New Zealand. Marianna eventually settled in Australia, marrying my Grandfather. Sadly no record has been found of either Emmaline or Jose which allows our family to know where in Portugal they were from, although it is thought that Jose may have been from Flores in The Azores. It would have been wonderful to visit their home towns but sadly that was not to be.
Getting to Portugal
We flew from Paris to Porto in the north of Portugal. Porto is Portugal’s second largest City and a great jumping off point for the Douro Valley and surrounds. We flew from Paris, Orly with Vueling Airlines and were able to quickly connect to the centre of Porto using the City’s excellent metro service. We were impressed with this our first, Vueling experience, and would not hesitate to use the airline again.
Our Porto experience
We stayed in the Trindade area and the metro took us very close to our Airbnb accommodation. Whilst we could have chosen a better location, we found it easy to walk to the centre of Porto and we used the metro for longer trips. Our actual accommodation was very disappointing and should we make a second visit we would choose a location closer to the river.
On arrival we had a wander around our local area and scouted out a restaurant close by for dinner that night. We had a delicious meal at Tapabento Trindade (there is a second Tapabento in Sao Bento) and despite our accommodation, our visit to Porto was off to a great start. The food, the service and the wine list at this restaurant were all excellent. Do make a reservation though, we were lucky to get a table.
The following morning we joined the Vintage Food Tour run by Taste Porto . This 3.5 hour walking tour gave us a taste of a variety of traditional Portuguese foods along with a wine tasting and a port tasting. I am not a fan of port wine (I find it too sweet) but the northern Portugal specialty wine, Vinho Verde, was delicious and a wine we enjoyed on several other occasions. Whilst the tour gave an excellent overview, including a sense of the City layout, we found the food heavy and very meat and bread focussed. There is a reason Portugal has a high cholestorol problem and the famous Franchesinha sandwich might be responsible. Given the location of Porto and the historic association with seafood (particularly sardines), it is fair to say we were, by and large, disappointed in the food offerings.
However, one can find alternatives to the heavy Portuguese food and that evening we enjoyed a more Mediterranean style meal at Ginjal Porto (also in the Trindade area). Not as polished as Tapabento, but still pleasant. There is good food in Porto, but for us not the traditional diet.
Things to do in Porto
We greatly enjoyed walking down into the historic centre of Porto and through the vibrant area close to the river. Lots of restaurants and live music made this a fun place to be and the tourist shops were brightly lit and welcoming. We had a mission to purchase some of the Ajuzelo tiles for which Portugal is famous, but waited until Lisbon to make this purchase. We did buy a few small gifts, including some lovely ceramic fridge magnets and some of the beautiful Castelbel soaps. Rowan also purchased some great shirts in Porto, benefiting from the end of summer sales.
The weather was perfect during our time in Porto and on the Sunday we ventured out to Matosinhos Beach for lunch by the sea. This location was easily reached by metro and there was a wide choice of restaurant styles. Again a booking is recommended, we waited 10-20 minutes or so for a table at Lais de Guia bar and restaurant which is right on the beach. The food and service here were both uninspiring. I had sardines and salad and was disappointed in the quality of the food. I think we would have to put that experience down to ‘location, location’ complacency.
On another day we enjoyed wandering through the Bolhao Market , a great place to source provisions for self catering or to enjoy a lunch within the market itself. We found the stallholders to be friendly and helpful, and tolerant of our almost non-existent Portuguese vocabulary. We purchased bread, cheese and fruit to eat at our apartment, and it was all delicious.
Of course a visit to the famous Sao Bento Station is a must, with the sensational entry foyer walls which are covered in Ajuzelo tiles. The station is busy with travellers and tourists, but definitely worth checking out.
Our trip to Portugal (more in a future post) was somewhat of a reconnaisance trip and we only had 4 nights in Porto, but we packed a lot into that time. There is a lot to see and do in Porto and we only scratched the surface. Would we return? On balance maybe not, but really because there is so much more of the world to see.
Planning a visit to Lisbon, here are some 3 day itinerary suggestions
Have you been to Porto? Is it on your list? If you have been, how did you find it?
Kutira | 18th January 2018 at 10:16 am
Great post, Jan. I’ve always wanted to travel to Portugal as I haven’t been there (or in Spain). A week or so in Porto seems a good start and I love your suggestion of a foodie walking tour to get to know the layout of the city. Cheers for now, Kutira
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 19th January 2018 at 2:06 pm
Thanks Kutira. Portugal and Spain are both well worth visiting (more posts coming up in the weeks ahead). A foodie walking tour is our favourite way to get to know a new city (and the food of course), we usually book for the day after our arrival for a quick ‘get up to speed’.
Elise Cohen Ho | 16th January 2018 at 8:55 am
That Sand Art is amazing. We have sand art festivals here in SOCal and I love going to them.
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 16th January 2018 at 1:59 pm
Hi Elisa, yes the sand art was amazing and such fun to sit and watch the artist at work.
Lyndall Guinery-Smith | 13th January 2018 at 11:09 am
Thanks for sharing your visit to Porto Jan – it looks delightful. I have a similar family connection to Italy, with my great great grandfather having emigrated from Italy to Australia in 1853. Unfortunately, we’re unable to corroborate where he came from in Italy, which is a shame, as it’s a very good reason to visit again! 🙂 #TeamLovinLife
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 14th January 2018 at 12:33 pm
Thanks for coming on the trip with us Lyndall 🙂 Oh it is a shame that you too have been unable to track the original family location, it would add so much more to a visit. However, I think your heritage in itself should be enough reason for you to revisit Italy.
Leanne @ Deep Fried Fruit | 13th January 2018 at 7:42 am
That food looks like art! Too good to eat.
Love the family legend.
#teamlovinlife
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 14th January 2018 at 12:33 pm
Thanks Leanne and yes the food at Tapabento was exquisitely presented and tasted just as good. Lovely wines too hic!
EmmaL | 12th January 2018 at 12:27 am
What a great family legend. I love it. I haven’t been to Portugal for years but loved it when I went.
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 12th January 2018 at 3:02 pm
Hi Emma, thanks for stopping by. I am guessing Portugal will have changed a lot if it is a while since you visited.
Maria Kelly | 11th January 2018 at 6:55 pm
I’ve been to Portugal gosh about 20 years ago – I think I need to go back and do it properly – it was with young children and all about a villa with a pool in those days! x #teamlovinlife
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 12th January 2018 at 3:03 pm
I can hardly imagine what it might have been like 20 years ago Maria, it would be interesting for you to revisit now. A villa and a pool is always a good idea though.
writeofthemiddle | 11th January 2018 at 5:09 pm
I have never thought of visiting Portugal but it sure looks (from your photos) and sounds very interesting so thanks for putting it on my radar! It’s a shame you didn’t know more details about the origins of your maternal great grandparents but still interesting to visit the country from which they came. #TeamLovinLife
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 12th January 2018 at 3:04 pm
Porto really was rather lovely so I am glad it is now on your radar. Yes it was a shame I didn’t have more details but as you say still interesting to visit the home country and I love having that cultural richness in my background.
Alicia-OneMotherHen | 11th January 2018 at 1:43 pm
What a fantastic story about your cultural history! We had a family friend growing up who was Porteguese, he was married to a French woman, I used to love to listen to them speak! The accent was infectious. I’d love to go to Spain, as my father was born there, and I have a myriad of family I have never met!
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 11th January 2018 at 1:56 pm
Hi Alicia, who knows how much is true, but it is a lovely story. Do go to Spain, we went there after Porto and loved every minute of our time there. Such a vibrant culture and great food ☺
Kathy Marris | 11th January 2018 at 12:38 pm
Portugal is definitely on my radar if I can convince my husband to return to Europe. The main square photo looks like the place I would love to perch myself, eat, drink and people-watch! #TeamLovinLife
Janet aka Middle Aged Mama | 11th January 2018 at 12:17 pm
Definitely on my list!
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 11th January 2018 at 12:45 pm
Good plan Janet
pioneerpat1 | 11th January 2018 at 9:48 am
Wow what a cool place to visit. I would love to go there. #TeamLovinLife
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 11th January 2018 at 12:46 pm
Plan on it, we really enjoyed Porto.
jotracey | 11th January 2018 at 8:24 am
Portugal is on my someday list…for someday. We love doing foodie tours wherever we go – it’s such a great way to be introduced to a city. What a lovely family story too.
Sue Loncaric | 10th January 2018 at 7:42 am
Hi Jan! We didn’t get to Porto but I would definitely love to visit Portugal and Spain again. The Vintage Food tour sounds amazing and I love looking at travel photos. Accommodation can be a hit and miss can’t it? Looks like you had a fabulous time though. My husband has a wonderful story of his parents and how they immigrated to Australia in 1952. I’m also fortunate that my two cousins on each side of my family love ancestry and have done all the hard work on the family tree. Thanks for linking up with us at #overthemoon and I hope you will link up to my new party with Leanne from Cresting the Hill which starts on 31st January – Midlife Share the Love Party. Have a great week!
Jan at Retiring Not Shy! | 10th January 2018 at 11:40 am
So much more of the world to see or revisit Sue, isn’t it exciting. I liked Porto more than Lisbon, much less touristy and accessible. The food tour was a great introduction; one of our favourite things to do on arrival in a new location. Yes I am very excited about your new linkup, something more Australian based always works better for me as I find more posts that I can readily comment on.